In the early morning, Phoenix Ancient Town.
A light mist drifts on the Tuojiang River, stilt houses reflecting in the water. A Miao grandmother washes clothes by the river, the sound of wooden clubs echoing in the morning air. On Rainbow Bridge, early-rising tourists set up cameras, waiting for the first ray of sunlight to fall on the ancient town.
This is the border town in Shen Congwen’s writing.
Hunan is a place that captures your soul.
Province Profile#
- Location: Central China, south of Dongting Lake
- Best Travel Season: April-October
- Highlights: Fantastic peaks and rocks, Miao frontier charm, Hunan cuisine, red hot land
Must-Visit Attractions#
Zhangjiajie: Avatar’s Prototype#
Zhangjiajie is China’s first national forest park, famous worldwide for the movie “Avatar.”
Yuanjiajie is Zhangjiajie’s essence, with over 3,000 stone peaks rising from the ground in various shapes. Hallelujah Mountain (formerly Southern Sky Column) is the prototype for the floating mountains in Avatar, standing alone among peaks, extraordinary in presence. Standing on Enchanting Stage, watching the sea of clouds surge, peaks appearing and disappearing like a fairyland.
Tianmen Mountain is called “The First Divine Mountain of Western Hunan,” with Tianmen Cave being the world’s highest natural mountain-spanning cave. Glass Skywalk is built on a cliff, with bottomless abyss beneath your feet—walking on it requires courage. Tianmen Mountain Cableway is 7,455 meters long, the world’s longest alpine passenger cableway.
Golden Whip Stream is Zhangjiajie’s most beautiful canyon, with crystal clear stream water and towering peak forests on both banks. Walking along the stream, watching monkeys jump in trees, listening to birds sing on branches—extremely pleasant.
Best Experience: Stay on the mountain, watch sunset and sunrise. Walk the glass skywalk and challenge your courage.
Phoenix Ancient Town: Shen Congwen’s Hometown#
Phoenix Ancient Town is the most beautiful ancient town in Western Hunan, Shen Congwen’s hometown.
The Tuojiang River flows through the town, with stilt houses on both banks, and Rainbow Bridge spanning the river. During the day, wander on flagstone paths, seeing old streets, old houses, old city walls; at night, lights reflect in the river water, singing drifts from bars—extremely lively.
Shen Congwen’s Former Residence is a must-visit place to understand this literary giant’s life. Southern Great Wall is the Miao frontier wall built during the Ming and Qing dynasties, witnessing the history of Han and Miao peoples.
Best Experience: Stay in a stilt house inn by the Tuojiang River, see the ancient town without tourists in the early morning, space out by the river at night.
Changsha: The Fiery Star City#
Changsha is a city with flavor, and a city with vitality.
Yuelu Academy is one of China’s four great academies, a millennium institution with unbroken scholarly tradition. Aiwan Pavilion is hidden in maple forests, where the verse “Stopping my carriage to sit and admire the late maple woods, the frost-touched leaves are redder than February flowers” was born.
Orange Isle is a small island in the Xiangjiang River, with a statue of young Mao Zedong standing on the island. On weekend nights, fireworks bloom—Changsha’s most beautiful night scenery.
Taiping Old Street and Pozi Street are where Changsha snacks gather—stinky tofu, sugar oil baba, spicy crayfish… eat your way through, spicy and satisfying.
Best Experience: Climb Yuelu Mountain in the morning, wander Taiping Old Street in the afternoon, watch fireworks at Orange Isle in the evening.
Special Experiences#
Yueyang Tower#
Yueyang Tower is one of the three great towers of Jiangnan, made famous by Fan Zhongyan’s “Note on Yueyang Tower.” “Worry before the world worries, enjoy after the world enjoys.” Standing on the tower, watching Dongting Lake’s vast expanse of misty waters, feel the sentiments of the ancients.
Nanyue Hengshan#
Hengshan is one of the Five Sacred Mountains, “The Most Beautiful of the Five Sacred Mountains.” Zhurong Peak is the highest peak—climb to the top to see sunrise and sea of clouds. Nanyue Grand Temple on the mountain is the largest ancient architectural complex in Jiangnan, with flourishing incense.
Chenzhou Misty Little Dongjiang#
Little Dongjiang is a paradise for photography enthusiasts. In the early morning, thin mist rises on the river surface, fishermen casting nets, fishing lights flickering—dreamlike.
Travel Tips#
- Transportation: Changsha is a transportation hub, with high-speed rail and flights to all parts of the country. Zhangjiajie has an airport, and Phoenix Ancient Town is about 1 hour by bus from Zhangjiajie.
- Accommodation: In Zhangjiajie, stay within the scenic area or in Wulingyuan; in Phoenix, stay in stilt houses by the Tuojiang River; in Changsha, stay near Wuyi Square.
- Note: Zhangjiajie scenic area is large—recommend 2-3 days. Phoenix Ancient Town is crowded at night—watch your belongings.
Hunan’s passion is hidden in those chili peppers, and also in those landscapes.
Zhangjiajie’s fantastic peaks make you marvel, Phoenix’s night scenery makes you intoxicated, Changsha’s cuisine makes you satisfied. This Xiangchu land always has reasons to make you linger.
Come to Hunan and feel the collision of fiery passion and poetry.
Tomorrow, we head to Henan to see the millennium Buddha statues of Longmen Grottoes and the legend of Shaolin Kung Fu.